The physics of surfing – Nick Pizzo

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Wondering how you can catch the perfect wave? Dive into the fascinating and complex physics of surfing.

Whether or not you realize it, surfers are masters of complicated physics. The science of surfing begins as soon as a board first hits the water. Surfers may not be thinking about weather patterns in the Pacific, tectonic geology or fluid mechanics, but the art of catching the perfect wave relies on all these things and more. Nick Pizzo dives into the gnarly physics that make surfing possible.

Lesson by Nick Pizzo, directed by Wonderlust.

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View full lesson: https://ed.ted.com/lessons/the-physics-of-surfing-nick-pizzo

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Comments

Jessica Jayes says:

Here's a tip, the biggest waves are on Hawaii's northern shores during the winter months. That's because Alaska storms blow all the way south to Hawaii, and with no land to block it, the waves are epic.

GeminWanzo says:

sorry but this art styles was a little too weird for me

Patrick Hultquist says:

I really like physics. Dr. Hawker is a cool teacher. F=ma, d=1/2at^2 with a = 9.8 m/s^2 and when an object is starting at rest. Here is the force: F=ma, so F=m*9.8. F is in N and m is in kg.

Sour ManJoe says:

Well done Ted Ed! Great video and animations but I found it distracting when trying to take in information over the slightly too loud music. Thank you for teaching us something new and interesting everyday

Midnight Sky says:

As much as I loved the video, I couldn’t understand at word. Be back in 10 years time then!

Charnock Games says:

Poor Crab 3:21 🙁

Wilford Pongyan says:

I thought this was the physics of suffering.

Oh well.

Quahntasy - Animating Universe says:

The physics of suffering.

That's what I read.

GameSquid says:

I hate this artstyle, lol

Akuma says:

Ted-Ed I don’t care if this has anything to do with myths and legends I want a video on Atalanta or Achilles.

Harvey Sun says:

The new ted-Ed’s are mostly narrated by Addison Anderson.

zeref 2112 says:

Can you makea video about Thomas Young

OH yeah yeah-Call ? says:

I feel intelligent just reading the name

Leroy Liu says:

Too bad I’m not a surfer

Rebecca Hughes says:

What a beautifully made video!

Leto85 says:

Knowing all this I now feel even more proud of my shiny surfing Pikachu. 🙂

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